We make our own corned beef in-house using Local Makaweli beef brisket.
1 gal. water 2 C. kosher salt 5 tsp. pink curing salt 3 Tbs. pickling spice 1⁄2 C. brown sugar 11⁄2 tsp. toasted sliced almonds pickled okra
Brine beef for three days, rinse brine from beef, then braise in beef stock for 3 hours until tender. Remove beef from stock and cool before slicing
8 oz. Eating House corned beef, sliced Kaua‘i-baked fresh rye bread sliced Gruyère cheese house-made Thousand Island dressing 1⁄4 C. of house-pickled cabbage and pickled onions
Griddle sandwich using a coating of parmesan mayonnaise on the griddle side of the bread. Sear until golden brown and bread has a crust.Turn over, following the same instructions with parmesan mayonnaise. Once both sides are golden brown, cut in half. Serve with an extra side of house-made Thousand Island dressing.
1⁄2 tsp. salt 2 Tbs. chipotle in adobo 3⁄4 C. vegetable oil
Using a food processor, add egg yolks, lemon juice, garlic, chipotle with adobe sauce and blend. Slowly pour in vegetable oil to emulsify and season with salt and sugar. We serve this sauce with the Hapa burger.
1 C. chorizo sausage 2 C. onions, diced 1 C. roasted red bell pepper, diced 1 C. tomato, diced 1 tsp. paprika 1 Tbs. garlic, chopped
Sauté chorizo, onions and garlic until slightly brown. Combine tomatoes, roasted red bell peppers and paprika.Turn heat down to low and allow to stew until tomatoes start to reduce and sauce thickens. Remove from heat and put aside. RICE
1 oz. onion, diced 1 oz. pimento, diced 1 tsp. garlic 6 oz. Arborio rice 1⁄2 C. white wine 4 threads of saffron 1 qt. lobster stock 4 ea. tiger shrimp cleaned and deveined 6 ea. clams 3 oz. boneless, medium-diced chicken thigh 2 oz. Portuguese sausage, diced 2 C. chicken stock
Sauté onions, garlic and pimento with a little olive oil. Add rice, saffron and white wine, stirring while rice absorbs. Next add 1⁄3 of the lobster stock, again waiting for the rice to absorb the stock.Add next 1⁄3 of the lobster stock and the paella base with diced chicken and Portuguese sausage. Once stock starts to absorb into rice add clams, remaining lobster stock and 2 C. chicken stock.Turn down heat and add shrimp on top. Cover for 3 minutes. Remove cover and stir. Season with salt and pepper to taste; finish with fresh parsley.
Written by Kelly McHugh Photography courtesy of Eating House 1849
Roy Yamaguchi is a phenomenon: An international culinary creator and visionary of Hawaiian fusion cuisine; recipient of the prestigious James Beard Award; television host of “Hawaii Cooks with Roy Yamaguchi,” airing in more than 60 countries; cookbook series publisher and founder of a rather significant collection of restaurants including 30 Roy’s Restaurants in the United States and Guam, the now closed Tavern by Roy Yamaguchi and his latest creation, Eating House 1849, he’s pretty much killing it. And rightly so, considering his pragmatic approach to his work.
“How do I do it?” He asks, “I just put my head down and I do the work. I never look up. I never ask myself ‘why.’ I don’t ask any questions. And I never take any of it for granted.”
The menu for this latest venture Eating House 1849 in Kaua‘i took two years to conceptualize, a testament to the quality of both care and resolve given to his work.“I knew that our Roys’ lease was going to be ending over in Po‘ip–u, and I had already begun dreaming up a new concept based on Peter Fernandez’s mid-1800s style of using only what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and fishermen,” he remarks.“When I had a chance to shop at The Shops at Kukui‘ula and saw the surroundings, it really kind of fit everything into place.”
Yamaguchi’s idea is to take the Portuguese – Filipino flair of Roy’s and blend it with American cooking. “What you see on the menu today is only about 10 percent a reflection of what it looked like a few years ago,” he reveals. “It’s gone through a lot of transitions of writing, tweaking, tasting, executing and starting the process all over again until it’s right.”
In this case,“right” is not tuned to a creative vision per se,but the inextricable link between taste and memory. “My grandfather worked on a Maui plantation and ran a restaurant in the 1940s,” he recalls. “I remember visiting him during our summer vacations and eating his plantation paella, a Hawai‘i-style approach to a traditionally Span- ish dish. Generally paella is more or less a dry, rice dish, but my grandfather would start his off with a tomato base and make it very brothy and rich – more of a stew or a soup. I remember he used to make this for the farmers, served up in a cast iron dish. It brings back a lot of memories.”
Chances are,Yamaguchi has also created a taste memory for you as he attributes any success he has had to the community at large with whom he feeds, employs and otherwise intermingles. “No, my inspiration doesn’t come from food; it isn’t a question of what I eat periodically,” he says.“I get inspired every day that I work. From colors that I see to textures that I feel to people that I meet. It’s not about food- it’s about life. And no B.S.”
“It’s not about food- it’s about life. And no B.S.”
Now we’re getting somewhere.
“Many years ago we tried to figure out what Roy’s really is,” he goes on to explain.“It’s about ‘No B.S.’ We have a job to do. We have our missions. On a day-to-day basis, we’re cooking for guests. We want to make sure that our staff is happy and we treat them with respect. We want to take care of our guests’ needs with a ‘get the job done’ attitude, and deliver a wow factor that we hope will get them to come back.We operate such that what we did last night determines how successful we will be today. We have to prove ourselves over and over again on a sec- ond-by-second basis. Their perception could change within seconds! So we take care of each and every guest.”
And with this, I realize that Roy and I are both exhaling; caught up in a moment of excitement for what he very clearly has a passion and a calling for: Quality.
I release him from our discussion with one final question: “What’s the best thing that happened to you all week?”
He repeats my words.Twice. Mulls it over and states plainly, “I got home yesterday after four days on the main- land, all business, opened the fridge, grabbed some leftover dim sum, ate that and relaxed.That was nice.”
Recipe by Jim Moffet of Bar Acuda Restaurant, Hanalei, Kaua‘i
makes 4 saladss
1 green & 1 yellow Zucchini- thinly sliced on “mandolin” (Thiner the better!!) I two inch knuckle of fresh hearts of palm also sliced paper thin on mandolin Parmesan reggiano – shaved 4 Tbs. rough choped Hazelnuts
1 Tbs. truffle oil 1 Tbs. sherry vinegar 1 shallot minced Salt and pepper
Thinly slice the zucchini, hearts of palm and cheese. Delicately arrange on plate and add hazelnuts. Combine minced shallots, vinegar and truffle oil in a separate bowl. Season with salt and pepper then drizzle on salad. Super simple and delicious.
As the sultry sun begins to shine over Kauapea Farm, turtledoves coo and waves boom against nearby cliffs. Inside a cozy yurt, farmer Jillian Seals puts socks on Noble, her 2-year-old son. Sage, aged 14, Faith, 12, and Azure, 8, are already out the door.
Outside, workers harvest from two orchards, a food forest and five 4,000-square-foot plots. Herbs, edible flowers and vegetables spill from gardens that are shaped in concentric circles.A patchwork of red and green lettuce heads brightens one row.
Lychee trees drip with blossoms and a Berkshire breeding pig naps in the shade. Nearby, 25 hens and 40 chicks live in rotating coops nestled in a fallow plot that once grew ginger and turmeric. Jillian is experi- menting with growing spinach, a crop that’s difficult to grow on Kaua‘i.
Growing up on a farm in Litchfield County, Connecticut, Jillian helped her family grow fresh herbs and make value-added products. In 1999, she moved to Kaua‘i and learned about sub-tropical farming, bio-in- tensive techniques, Kaua‘i’s year-round growing seasons and compan- ion-planting tropical crops. In 2006, she established Kauapea Farm and Kaua‘i Farm Connection (KFC) with her husband Gary Seals.
KFC distributes Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) shares, and this week’s boxes contain leeks, bunching onions, lettuce, kale, savoy cabbage, dandelion greens, white mana taro and green beans.
Besides feeding CSA members, Kauapea Farm shares their abundance by trading work hours in the garden for vegetables, helping with school gardens, and accepting food stamps, or what is now called EBT (Elec- tronic Benefits Transfer) under the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP).
“Kauai Farm Connection is about connecting people with fresh organic food while giving farmers a distribution outlet,” says Jillian. “I want to level the playing field and grow food that’s accessible to everyone.”
Recipe by Chef Jana McMahon Photography by Jana Dillon
6 ears of corn 3 C. water 3 Tbs. butter, cubed 1⁄4 C. baby heirloom tomatoes (if tomatoes are too big, slice in half) 1⁄2 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped 1⁄2 tsp. sea salt black pepper to taste
Shuck corn and cut kernels off the cob. Place the kernels in a large saucepan and cover with the water. Cook for 12 minutes on a low simmer. Use a slotted spoon to lift the kernels from the water. Save the cooking liquid and reserve a half cup of the corn kernels in a separate bowl.
Put cooked corn into a food processor, blender or use immersion blender. Pulse for a few seconds, aiming for a medium smooth texture.Add back some of the cooking liquid a tablespoon at a time so the mixture stays silky and not too dry.
Place the corn purée in a cast iron pan with the cooking liquid and cook, while stir- ring, on low heat for 10 minutes.This holds beautifully on the back of the grill while you are grilling the rest of the meal.
Fold in the butter, half cup of reserved corn kernels, thyme, salt and pepper to taste, and cook for two more minutes.Top with fresh baby heirloom tomatoes and serve.
Preheat grill to medium heat. Grill corn (with husk and silk on) on the grill rack, turning once or twice during cooking, until corn is tender and a little charred. About 15 minutes. Remove from grill. Let cool 5 minutes. Cut lemons in quarter pieces. Mix salt, black pepper, garlic powder, paprika and cayenne pepper in small bowl. Husk corn. Rub each piece with a quarter of a lemon. Drizzle with seasoning to taste. Serve and enjoy.
Adapted from Corttany Brooks’ Recipe Photography by Kolton Dalla
Why would anyone want to make their own charcoal you ask? For one thing, good hardwood lump burns hotter and cleaner than briquettes and is much easier to light.You also know where it came from, what it contains and what was done to it en route.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Source of fire: I use a back yard fire pit. A propane heater or even a grill could also be used.
Empty metal paint can: It’s a good idea to make sure the paint can is cleaned of paints that can give off toxic fumes. Poke or drill three holes in the lid.These holes should be about an eighth of an inch in diameter.
Wood: You can use any hardwood native to the islands like Kiawe or Macadamia Nut wood. Experiment to see which one is readily available for you and works for your needs. Research to make sure the wood is not toxic when burned.
When building the fire, I like to have my fire going for an hour or two be- fore I start cooking the charcoal.This gives me a nice steady coal bed to cook over and a nice break to enjoy some sun and a brew.
Once the fire situation is in order, fill the can with your choice of wood. Try to use uniform pieces, which will give a more consistent end product. If using a variety of sizes, line the can with larger pieces, and place the smaller ones in the center. It’s also helpful to use dry or seasoned wood.
THE WAITING GAME
This part takes a few hours.Turn the can over once or twice to make sure that the heat stays hot and even, but not blazing.
As the wood heats, steam and gasses escape through the holes in the lid. The goal is to cook out everything but the carbon. Cooking the wood while starving it of oxygen is the retort method of making charcoal.
At first, the steam escaping will appear white. As the steam darkens, keep a closer eye on it.The darker gasses show that the essential oils are burning off.These gasses are flammable and will eventually ignite, making three small torches out of the holes in the lid.
This means that it is time to take it off the fire.
PLEASE NOTE: Do not take off the lid at this point! Simply place the extremely hot can holes facing down in a safe, cool place. Introducing oxy- gen to the coal at this point would cause it to burn up immediately, leaving you with ashes.
Wait at least a few hours for everything to cool completely before revealing your homemade charcoal. And lastly, enjoy!
This issue, driven by the theme of COOK, tells a story that I wasn’t quite expecting.Yes, we curate stories specifically for each issue with the theme in mind, but often something else emerges and the issues we create either tell a much deeper story than we were expecting, or something else altogether.
You’ll find within these pages some delectable and easy-to-make recipes that will infuse your summer with freshness. We share with you the art of making your own charcoal.
We also get to experience how easy it is to make at home seasonal recipes that comes from a brilliant company called HI Fresh Box, before bringing you in on an in-depth exploration of what makes a memorable burger in our feature, Anatomy Of A Burger.
And before we buy food, before we even grow food, the process of pollination needs to take place on our farms in order for food to actually reproduce. One in three bites of our food depends on insect (mostly honeybee) pollination. For the last 10 years or so an epidemic decline in the world’s pollinator population has begun to threaten our food production.We’ll go deep into the situation as it stands for our Hawaiian Islands in The Birds and the Bees; Let’s Talk Pollination.
Hana Ranch’s visionary work in Hana, promises a brighter future in Taking the Long View. Not only are they growing food in a manner that honors the land, but their goal is to feed all of Hana and later, Maui County.To see this vision come to fruition would mean we would reach the goal of cutting dependence on the importation of food, and the food we would be cooking at home would be locally and sustainably sourced.
Peeling back the layers of this issue you’ll find that cooking is made up of a series of steps that originated months, perhaps years ago in the natural and human-governed process. Conscious consumption of food rests in the awareness of what it takes to grow the food we cook with and eat together.This awareness includes knowing the state of food policy and regulation as explained to us in our feature, Chef Tom Colicchio Goes to Washington.
Summer is a time for family, fun, being outdoors and cooking together to share our meals. It’s one long season of celebration and I would be remiss if I didn’t also note that this summer issue marks the 9-year anniversary of edible Hawaiian Islands. We thank all of you who have been with us from the beginning, contributing along the way by sharing in the photographs, stories, supporting the magazine with your advertising and subscribing.You are the edible ‘Ohana and we are grateful to have you with us along this journey.