WRITTEN BY KEN LOVE
INTRODUCTION AND EDITED BY SARAH SCHULTZ

Nature’s butter. Brunch’s best friend. Toast’s trendy topping. Guacamole’s be-all, end-all. The good kind of fat. Whichever way you slice (or smash or spread) it, this melt-in-your-mouth fruit is good for you, and good on virtually everything. This is an ode to the avocado.

AN EARLY HISTORY

Early explorers, whalers, sandalwood traders, and assorted adventurers stopped in Central and South America to pick up supplies, which included copious amounts of the alligator pear—a scaly, oval fruit we now know as the avocado. When they arrived along the coasts of Hawai‘i, they threw out their garbage—and it grew. (You know what they say about another man’s trash.)

Conventional belief is that avocados were first brought to the Hawaiian territory in the very early 1800s by Don Francisco de Paula Marin, Kamehameha the Great’s interpreter and confidant. Marin, known for cultivating new crops, also grew Isabella grapes—then sold the resulting wine to sea captains, off what is now Vineyard Avenue in Honolulu.

The 1902, Bulletin 51 of the Hawai‘i Experiment Station referred to Marin’s introduction of the avocado, and reported on additional sightings of large trees in 1825. Additionally, there are reports from 1853 and 1895 of trees from both Central America and the West Indies, which is quite the long legacy for the state that produces, arguably, the worlds’ finest avocados. Over the years, it has grown into hundreds, maybe even thousands, of varieties. (Only about 200 are grown in Hawaii today, though.)

HAWAIIAN AVOCADOS TODAY

Now sometimes lovingly known as the avo, avocados are divided into three categories: West Indian, Guatemalan, and Mexican. Thanks to cross-pollination, however, there are hundreds of hybrids with varying characteristics, and in the islands, trees produce some of the biggest, best avocados in the world. Here’s why: The microclimates and supreme soils result in larger fruits with larger amounts of healthy oils, like polyunsaturated fatty acids, minerals, and nutrients.

Hawaii’s main avocado export is the Sharwil (a cross between Mexican and Guatemalan types)—but only recently. Just within the past five years, the United States Department of Agriculture lifted an embargo from 1992, which banned this island cultivar from reaching the mainland. Prized for its buttery flavor and small pit, this breed of avocado grows especially well in the Kona district of Big Island. But different regions bear different fruit—so there’s plenty to choose from.

Have an appetite for local avocados? Hit the neighborhood groceries, farmers markets and health food stores any time of year, and you’re bound to score different varieties every season. (Sharwils are considered a winter fruit.)

A POPULARITY CONTEST

There’s definitely debate on which variety is the crème de la crème. Several years ago Hawaii Tropical Fruit Growers (HTFG) and The University of Hawai‘i gave samples and polled more than 500 consumers on Oahu and in Kona —along with just shy of 100 chefs—to discover some local favorites other than the Sharwil. Interestingly enough, there was a widespread difference of opinion among the chefs: Alan Wong took a liking to the Kahalu`u, Roy Yamaguchi voted for the local Hass, Jim Babian went with the Serpa, and Glen Chu has always loved the unknown variety from his grandmother’s tree.

Other chef favorites include the Linda and Malama varieties. Older varieties that haven’t gone out of style include the Yamagata, Nishikawa, Ohata, Murashige (a great summer producing fruit), and the Fuerte—which was the most popular in the world prior to the Hass. More recent varieties have also gained popularity, including Beshore, Green Gold, and MIT 13. Newer, well-liked seedlings include the Schattauer 1 and 2—named for George Schattauer, who managed the South Kona ranches owned by actors Jimmy Stewart and Julie Andrews, and the Mr. T named after Yoshitaka Takashiba, a staple in the South Kona agriculture community. Hulumanu, chosen over many others by Ilan Hall, the winner in Season 2 of Top Chef, is currently enjoying a resurgence of popularity.

Avocados can range in size from the Jan Boyce, which is a little larger than an egg, to the humongous Daily 11 to the 14-inch long Fukumitsu. Many avocados in the state were named after the families of farmers who found these high-quality, high-oil seedlings. While farmers brought some avocados to Hawai‘i from around the globe, most came via university researchers and their various projects over the last 150 years. Many of the varieties and cultivars listed in university publications since the 1920s are no longer found—or are impossible to positively identify. These are listed on the HTFG Avocado poster http://www.hawaiifruit. net/Avocado.pdf along with pictures of many of what is found around the state.

REAP WHAT YOU GROW

Growing avocado trees across the islands is easy. But keeping the trees pruned low enough to facilitate harvesting? Not quite. Plus, growing from seed gives you a slim chance of getting a fruit as good as the one you actually ate to get the seed. The solution? Meet grafting.

Almost all avocados in today’s production are grafted, meaning part of a mature tree is carefully cut (the scion) and placed in a rootstock. Over time and wirh care, the scion forms the fruit-producing branches, and the rootstock becomes the roots and lower trunk of the tree. Grafting is done to ensure the same quality fruit, increase production, and decrease the time it takes a tree to bear fruit. For that reason, HTFG is always on the lookout forhigh-quality fruit trees in order to both protect their tree repositories—and to make scion available to aspiring avocado growers.

In addition, HTFG is working with researchers in Kagoshima, Japan to determine what varieties Japanese consumers prefer. These are currently being grown in greenhouses in the Okinawan islands and Kyushu and parts of Shikoku. Preliminary research at a Japan Tropical Fruit Association conference show a preference for Malama, Mr T, Kahaluu, Beshore, and—of course—Sharwil. Currently Japan imports 64,000 tons of Mexican avocados per year, which represents a great potential for Hawaii-based growers.

There is a bright future for Hawaiian avocados. The increased awareness of the localvore movement, the lift of the Sharwil ban, collaboration with Japan, and the branding of individual cultivars will continue to put Hawaiian avocados on the map. With this in mind, growers have purchased almost 2000 grafted trees from HTFG in the last 2 years. New younger farmers in Hawaii, a new generation of chefs and Hawaiian Culinary School graduates, and savvy consumers also push for the potential of reclaiming the market from imports.

Whether you whip them into your vegan brownies or blend them into your new-age margaritas, the avocado reigns supreme in versatility. And with a first yield time of eight to 12 years, aficionados and agriculturalists alike can appreciate the fruit tree’s hard-earned, creamy goodness. So, go ahead and pay extra for avocad

WRITTEN BY KATIE MCMILLAN
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEAN MICHAEL HOWER
HAWAI’I SONG & MUSIC BY MAKANA

Sometimes the simplest acts are actually the most revolutionary—taking time to gather with friends, talk story, share a meal, eat from the garden, and carry tradition forward. These acts remind us to tune in to our deep connection with the ‘āina (land) and how important it is to the very nature of our existence.

For Hawaiian slack key guitar master Makana, tuning in is much more than a musical reference. It’s about honoring culture and the soul of an archipelago that yearns for respect and appreciation for the preservation of its abundant, natural state. Prior to colonization, Hawaiians were once able to feed millions of residents without importing any food.

Despite a demanding performance schedule, Makana has always maintained his own garden and devoted his spare to time to speaking out in support of practices that sustain that which feeds us: the ‘āina as well as the local farmers that are its stewards.

In Hawai’i, it is common for families and friends to gather on weekends to talk story, cook, drink, and play music and games. Most often, these gatherings take place in someone’s open garage or back yard. It doesn’t matter what size the space is, it’s all about company and the meal. Neighbors are always invited and they are encouraged to bring produce from their garden, fruit from their trees, or fresh caught fish to share.

Makana loves to invite friends over to share a meal and prepare food & drink grown close to home. It’s this simple act of connection that provides him with the fuel to travel and share the Hawaiian culture with the thousands of people that flock to his performances to be transported to one of the most sacred places on earth.

We recently joined Makana for a small afternoon gathering, which involved group meal preparation, spirited conversation, and music (of course!). Guests took turns picking up the pōhaku ku’i ‘ai (stone pestle) to take part in pounding taro– a mealtime tradition that has existed in Hawai’i for thousands of years. Pineapple infused water kept everyone cool and laughter was the only thing that drowned out the sounds of the stone hitting the papa’kui’i (wood board).

GREEN SALAD WITH POHOLE & FRESH HERBS

PA’I’AI

TERIYAKI GRASS-FED FLAP STEAK OR SKIRT STEAK

PINEAPPLE WITH RUM & MINT

Following the meal, the mesmerizing sound of Makana’s guitar enveloped the gathering. In this moment one truth rose to clarity, tangibly uniting the assembled guests: that the āina is the source of life and that we all play a critical role in ensuring that it remains healthy for future genera-tions. Perhaps one solution for protecting Hawaii’s natural resources is simply to eat together more? It’s certainly food for thought, because one message of this meal was crystal clear: sharing food & drink is indeed a revolutionary act.

HAWAI’I’S SONG
By Makana

Living life the olden way
We grow the food we eat
Makua plant, nā keiki play
‘Āina beneath our feet
Makahiki long
Nā kupuna strong

Lawai’a stands upon the shore
Throwing his net to feed
He catches fish, but never more
Than what his family needs
And the new fish spawn
In the old fish pond

Someday you’ll be free
Land of Hawai’i
Cleansed of all the greed
Covered in lo’i

Some believe they own the land
Do they really now?
I believe the land owns us
Let me show you how
For the land must give
For a man to live
Once we understand
This is sacred land
Then a new day will dawn
In Hawai’i’s Song

To learn more about Makana,
go to www.makanamusic.com
©2011 Makana Music LLC

WRITTEN BY KAREN ANDERSON

There’s something intriguing brewing in the hip, urban neighborhood of Kaka‘ako near Waikiki, where a growing number of craft-beer breweries have emerged over the last several years including Honolulu Beerworks, Aloha Beer Company, and Home of the Brave Brewing Company. By this fall, Waikiki Brewing Company will have opened a new loca-tion on Queen Street, further bolstering the neighborhood’s newfound status as the “brew district” of the state.

Hawai‘i is now home to more than a dozen breweries across the island chain, with some new arrivals slated to open by the end of this year. Whether Kaua‘i Island Brewing Co. in Port Allen; Big Island Brewhaus in Kamuela; or the venerable Maui Brewing Co. in Lahaina and Kihei, craft breweries attract visitors and residents alike who appreciate creative, quality brews fresh off the tap—and who want to raise their glass to the craft-beer culture with fellow hops aficionados.

Brewmasters experiment with a range of recipes, creating lagers, ales, stouts and IPAs suitable for both the beach and fine-dining restaurants. Signature libations—like Honolulu Beerworks’ Cocoweizen brewed with hand-toasted coconut—reflect the tropical “terroir” featuring local ingredients such as pineapple, citrus and cacao. Increasingly, more local breweries are canning their flagship beers for distribution in-state and on the mainland. Maui Brewing Co.’s Bikini Blonde Lager is one example. Mehana’s Mauna Kea Pale Ale from Hilo is another.

Helping to raise the profile of indie breweries, some dining establishments and gastropubs in Hawai‘i are specifically promoting locally handcrafted beer. Beer lovers flock to such destinations as Humpy’s Big Island Ale House (Kailua-Kona), A-Bay’s Island Grill (Waikoloa Beach Resort), Real, a Gastropub (Honolulu), Brew’d Craftpub (Kaimuki), What Ales You (Kihei), and Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman (Kihei).

The slow but steady rise of Hawai‘i’s craft beer movement is great news for beer enthusiasts and brewers, says Joe Lorenzen, brewmaster at Waikiki Brewing Company.

“When we first opened in 2015 near Ala Moana, we were only the third operating brewery on O‘ahu, after Gordon Biersch, which was the first,” he said. “This will be our second brewery in town, which will allow us to increase production and also have the freedom to experiment with new and fun styles.”

Waikiki Brewing Company offers nine handcrafted beers, one of which is the Hana Hou Hefe fashioned in the style of an American pale wheat beer. The upcoming opening of the brewery’s second location will make it possible to expand distribution to the outer islands. Joe says that the craft-brew community in Hawai‘i is filled with camaraderie and possibilities.

“The scene on the mainland had already taken off years prior, and it took a little while for the craft beer movement to fully migrate to Hawai‘i,” said Joe. “It’s a friendly camaraderie here among the brewers. A rising tide lifts all boats.”

A brief and recent history of craft beer in Hawai‘i begins with the opening of Kona Brewing Co. in Kailua-Kona in 1995. (The very first brewery in Hawai‘i, however, was Honolulu Brewing & Malting Co., founded in 1898 and maker of the legendary Primo.) Although most all of Kona Brewing Co.’s product is now brewed on the mainland, the company set the bar high in achieving widespread name recognition.

Founded in 2005 in Lahaina, Maui Brewing Co. brews all its beer in Hawai‘i, officially making it the largest craft brewery in the state. The company employs more than 400 people statewide, says Marsha Hansen, marketing manager for Maui Brewing Co.

“Our cans are manufactured on O‘ahu, and we brew and package everything here on-island. Right now, we are at the 50,000-barrel mark, and our tasting room offers 28 to 30 of our beers at any given time. We are in 23 states and 10 countries including Japan, South Korea, Chile and Canada.”

Owner of Maui Brewing Co., Garrett Marrero came to the Islands from San Diego, the country’s undisputed craft beer utopia. In 2005, he bought a restaurant/brewery called Fish and Game Rotisserie, located near Lahaina, where he began to brew local craft beer. Distribution took off in 2008.

Veteran brewmaster Tom Kerns, originally from Portland, Oregon, was instrumental to founding Maui Brewing Co., having helped establish the original brewery in 1997 at the former Fish and Game Rotisserie. Fast forward to today. At his brewery in upcountry Kamuela on the Big Island, Tom continues to dedicate himself to the fine art of handcrafted beer at Big Island Brewhaus, opened in 2011. His focus is on barrel aging beers.

“Our Golden Sabbath is aged in American Oak Chardonnay barrels, which really does enhance the beer,” he said. “It’s a strong Belgian golden ale brewed with Hawaiian honey, and is one of our bestselling beers. Our Overboard IPA is our most popular beer. It won the World Beer Cup and the Great American Beer Festival. We just did a collaboration beer with Jolly Pumpkin Brewery in Michigan. They are friends who come here to visit. We used jaboticaba in the recipes.”

At Big Island Brewhaus, there are 18 to 20 choices on tap most days. His beer is available all across the state, and new recipes are always on the horizon.

“My philosophy as a brewer is that I like to take traditional things and imagine new flavors,” said Tom. “Here in Hawai‘i, there are interesting options when using local ingredients. We’ll use honey, coffee, cacao and a wide variety of fruits and spices in different recipes.”

President of the Hawaiian Craft Brewers Guild, Tom helps guide the brewing community in advancing and promoting craft beer. Established last year, the guild advocates on behalf of creating a better business climate for the burgeoning industry. Shipping costs, regulations and taxes disproportionately impact Hawaii’s local beer industry compared to the rest of the country.

“There are a lot of factors that challenge small brewers here,” said Dave Curry, co-owner and brewer of Kaua‘i Island Brewing Co., and a guild member. “To manufacture draft beer, we pay .54 cents a gallon in state excise taxes. For cans and bottles, it’s .93 cents a gallon. Compare that to California, which is .20 cents a gallon. The guild is also trying to help our members obtain better rates on shipping in grains. The barley and hops, for example, have to be shipped to us on a barge. Infrastructure costs can be prohibitive as well.”

Veteran brewers like Dave and Tom support up-and-coming brewers. The community is close-knit. Some brewers join ranks and order their shipments together.

At Honolulu Beerworks, bar manager Nick Riley says their hops originate from the Pacific Northwest, New Zealand and Australia, allowing brewmaster Geoff Seideman to take advantage of alternate growing seasons throughout the year. Additionally, some brewers on Maui and Hawai‘i Island are now attempting to grow hops, he said.

“We have 14 styles of beer on tap here at Honolulu Beerworks, and we like to use local ingredients,” said Nick. “We use citrus when it’s in season from a North Shore farm. I like our Sheltered Bay IPA, which is a very hop-forward, bitter beer style originated from England. It has a deep, amber color and balances out the malt sweetness with the bitterness of hops. It’s an easy-drinking beer.”

While good beer and good food go hand in hand, there’s also opportunity to incorporate beer as a culinary ingredient. Honolulu Beerworks blends one of its IPAs into a delicious, house-made Caesar salad dressing. The Beer-Made Mac & Cheese is baked with Point Panic Pale Ale cheese sauce, while the Bavarian Soft Pretzels are served with South Shore Stout mustard.

Opened in 2012, Kaua‘i Island Brewery is one of two breweries on the island, the other being Kaua‘i Beer Company in Lihue. Kaua‘i Island Brewery features 13 beers on tap, with a focus on lagers. Three different types of yeast are used to create a variety of styles. One of its most popular beers, the Captain Cook IPA is close to 6.3 percent alcohol, says veteran brewmaster Dave Curry.

“I’ve been fine-tuning the recipe for 18 years and it’s just how I like it. I have two other IPAs that I experiment with using different varieties of new, exciting ingredients that weren’t available ten years ago. We are about to double the size of our manufacturing facility to a 10-barrel brewhouse. In the scheme of things, it’s not that big, but it’s growth for us and that’s great!”

Brewers across the Islands want to see each other succeed. A stalwart of the industry, Maui Brewing Co. provides much inspiration. The Maui-based company recently opened a restaurant this year at Holiday Inn Resort Waikiki Beachcomber. Additionally, the company’s Kihei brewing site will unveil a restaurant by January 2018.

Maui Brewing Co. is also putting the focus on advancing sustainable business practices.

“We are currently working hard to get fully off the grid,” said Marsha Hansen of Maui Brewing Co. “Our facility on Maui is covered with photovoltaic panels, and soon we will be fully off grid. We also work with local farmers by giving them our spent grain to use for animal feed.”

For growing brewhouses like Honolulu Beerworks, the fact that Hawai‘i could become comparable to meccas like Seattle, Portland, San Diego and Denver bodes well for the future of the state’s craft-beer industry.

“There is an interest and taste for craft beer among locals and tourists,” said Nick, who assists in the creation of brews at Honolulu Beerworks. “We have a great mix of visitors, residents and Japanese tourists, and a solid pau hana rush with the local crowd in the evenings. The distributors have seen that there is a big market for craft beer. It’s been a long time coming for beer enthusiasts. I wouldn’t be surprised to see the trend continue.”